I can’t wait for this to be over.

It’s one week away from Election Day. Cathy and I both filled out our absentee ballots last night and they’ll go out in today’s mail. I think it’s pretty safe to say that most people have made up their minds about who they are voting for and most polls show Hilary holding on to a very thin margin in the general election but a fairly comfortable lead in electoral votes, which means that she is probably going to be our next President. I was hopeful that Trump would get a shellacking, and there are still indications that he might, but I’m getting less convinced that will happen. Either way the Republican Party of the past is going to look very different; it’s not beyond the realm of possibility that it would split into two parties. There are a lot of Republicans who are holding their noses and voting for Trump, but the number of party stalwarts who have come out publicly that they are voting for Clinton is telling. Of course, those nose-holders could probably better be described as a vote against Hilary, but that’s true for pretty much every election.

I also predict that even if Clinton wins by a fair margin, the Legislative branch is going to be split between Houses or will stay Republican. And unless Democrats take the White House with a resounding mandate, the unprecedented nastiness of this presidential race does not bode well for a legislature that will be any more cooperative for Hilary than it was for Obama. And that means nothing significant will happen. John McCain has already stated that if she wins he is going to do whatever is necessary to block her Supreme Court nominees. Ironically, it was working with McCain in the Senate that got Hilary her chops early on. And even the unlikely event of a Trump win (an unmitigated disaster for this country), the enemies he has created in his own party in this race are not going to fall all over themselves to cooperate with him in destroying the country with his mix of arrogance, stupidity and hubris).

I do have a small amount of hope that the Republican Party leadership, realizing how disastrous this election was for their brand, will disavow their romance with the nut jobs on the far right (religious whackos, Tea Party loyalists and Alt-Right loons) and try to resurrect their brand of old. Except for his hawkishness, Goldwater is starting to look pretty sane! If they don’t go back to the drawing board and try to rebuild from scratch, we should all remember that it was the anger at a do-nothing government that lead to the Trump candidacy.

Who knows? Social liberal/fiscal conservatives (like me) might even find there’s a candidate or two in that new/old Republican Party they could vote for in good conscience.

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This stupid election

donald-trump-grow-upOne of the things I find so disheartening about Trump’s campaign is how his “message” is resonating with so many people. It’s not just that he’s managed to tap into the anger that so many disenfranchised people feel. That’s bad enough, particularly when I can’t see how he can truly believe any of it himself, but is just cynically manipulating people to get them to vote for him. He’s been a Democrat in the past when it suited him, professed to be pro-women’s rights and clearly has no clue about the Christian Right and what’s important to them (he couldn’t quote a scripture as his favorite and  cited “Two Corinthians” which anyone familiar even remotely with the Bible knows is called “Second Corinthians.”) If he gets into office, it’s impossible to know what he really plans to do, as he’s been notably sparse in policy statements. No, the real issue from my perspective is summed up nicely in a commentary by Sophia McClennen and published in Salon. Now before we go any farther, I recognize that Salon is a “progressive/liberal” website, and I’ve written about the dangers of echo chambers and how easy it is to only hear what supports your own viewpoint, but in this case I think the facts that underpin McClennen’s positions are clear. Furthermore, she skewers both Republicans and Democrats, although truth be told the Right presents a much bigger target.

Her title is “I’m with stupid: The entire 2016 election has been an insult to our intelligence.” I’ve written several rants posted here about the importance of critical thinking and the unfortunate dearth of its application, particularly in our political process. For years the Republicans have been taking an anti-science position on climate change, claiming against all evidence to the contrary that global warming is not an issue to be concerned about, and further stating there is not yet even a consensus in the scientific community that it’s caused by human activity (a complete lie).

There are three stages to the acceptance of an idea by someone initially opposed to it:

1) It’s completely untrue.
2) OK, there may be some truth to it, but it’s irrelevant.
3) Of course it’s true, and I’ve said so from the very beginning.

So we find ourselves somewhere around (1) or (2) when we look at the Republican position, and I can only conclude it’s because doing anything significant to change it would hurt a variety of bottom lines in the world of Big Republican Donors.

This has been reflected throughout the current and last couple of election cycles. Starting with Dan Quayle, Dubya and then with that pinnacle of incomprehensible prose, Sarah Palin, we appear to have gone from dumb to dumber. There was an attempt to portray Quayle and Dubya as fairly intelligent guys whose public “good ol’ boy” persona was misinterpreted as stupidity. Although I don’t agree with that, it’s hard to see Palin as anything but stupid. Her speeches are impossible to follow, full of incomplete sentences, tortured syntax and no logical progression. She jumps from topic to topic without any connection; in short, if you read them they seem like the ravings of a lunatic. Yet somehow she “clicked” with millions of voters, all on the far right, of course.

And now we have Trump. I read the other day that he has something like a 200-work lexicon (this from his co-author in “The Art of the Deal”). Evidently Trump didn’t have the attention span to string a sentence together on his own, let alone contribute significantly to the book; it was written virtually 100 percent by the “co-author.” I would think that if Trump actually claims to have co-authored his book he should have, I don’t know, maybe actually written a little bit of it. But hey, that’s just me.

Take a listen for yourself if you question these observations. Trump’s speeches are worse than Palin’s (a feat I wouldn’t have thought possible). I cannot believe this guy is the Republican nominee. And I’m not just referring to his incredibly poor language skills or style; when you get past how he says it and come up against what he is saying, it’s even worse. Let’s take a couple of examples.

“I’m going to build a huge wall between the US and Mexico, and Mexico is going to pay for it.”

OK, this is a classic. First, the simple fact is that it’s impossible to do that from an engineering standpoint. Or next to impossible; take a look at a map sometime. A river makes up the border through most of Texas, so is he saying he’s going to build his wall down the middle of the Rio Grande? Engineers say it couldn’t be done. In any case the cost would be astronomical.

But Mexico is going to pay for it. Oh really? And just how are we going to get them to do that? In his one and only meeting with the President of Mexico, that little detail “didn’t come up.” Yeah, I bet. The simple fact is that Mexico is a sovereign nation and can tell Trump to go pound sand down a rat hole. He can bluster and bully all he wants and they wouldn’t pony up a nickel.

But most important of all, does anyone really think that building a wall between the US and Mexico is going to solve our illegal immigration problem? The fact that we already have a wall in a significant part of California has somehow escaped his notice? (Which, by the way, does almost nothing to slow the current flood)).

The point is that he has proposed a stupidly simplistic solution to a highly complex problem. What’s disconcerting is that anyone takes it seriously. Evidently his supporters are either idiots or naïve.

Another one is Trump’s statement early on that he had seen “thousands of Muslims in the streets of New Jersey cheering when the twin towers collapsed.”

He stuck to that ridiculous statement even after it became clear it was a lie; to this day not one shred of evidence, newsreel or report supports it. Again, the worst part is not that he said it (bad enough on its own), but that a large segment of our population continues to believe it.

And last (but by no means all) is his recent hot microphone debacle with the subsequent accusations and his denials.

This bozo is caught on tape bragging about sexual assault and how he gets away with it because he’s a “star,” and when a dozen women come forward with their experiences of him doing exactly that, he denies it and says “everyone who knows him knows that how he acts!! He should get a prize for sheer hubris. And yet again, the worst part is how many people profess to believe him.

Put this in perspective. Substitute any nine year-old child for Trump. They’d be grounded or sent to bed without supper for saying this nonsense, yet a large segment of our population is accepting it as truth because it’s coming from this excuse for a leader.

I could go on. And on. And to be fair, Democrats have their own skeletons. Not nearly as many nor as egregious, but some nonetheless. The real issue is how we as a society have been unwilling to hold people like Trump to a standard of truth. Or even to simple logic.

It does not bode well for us, methinks.

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Why care about this election?

As you can tell from what I’ve written lately I’ve been thinking a lot about the current election, and the prospects for this country. It’s of note that not that many years ago the results of virtually all our elections were “officially” inconsequential to me. JWs don’t vote and take no positions on the candidates so we viewed ourselves as outside the process. Our attitude was based on the biblical admonition to be “in the world but not of it.” I remember thinking that either party candidate was pretty much the same as the other, although I did like Kennedy and thought Nixon was a crook. But I also thought Johnson was way too smarmy and I didn’t trust him; and I thought our Baptist minister Carter was self-righteous. In retrospect (and not just because my “political gene” has apparently awoken), both Carter and Johnson have come up significantly in my opinion but those thoughts are for another posting. My point here is my political gene HAS awoken and I find the political process fascinating, frustrating and depressing, all at the same time. I think it’s maybe because I genuinely care about this country and our government and believe it can (and does) play a positive role both here in the US and throughout the world. Never in the history of the world has there ever been a country with anything near the strength (both militarily and economically) as the United States, and it seems we truly do try to do the right thing more often than not. I love a quote often (probably incorrectly) attributed to Sir Winston Churchill that “The Americans can always be trusted to do the right thing, once all other possibilities have been exhausted.”

Oh, I get that we act out of our self-interest way more than true altruism would support; our record of supporting tin-pot despots and banana dictators because they were “good for US business” is unenviable to say the least, and I am certainly not going to try to support all aspects of our foreign policy. The disastrous war(s) we’re trying to extricate ourselves from in the middle east are classic examples; it seems pretty clear that Bush/Cheney et al were much more interested in the economic benefits of all that oil for Haliburton than for creating a stable region (for Israel or anyone else).

That being taken into consideration, I think on the whole we (the United States), warts and all, are more a force for good in the world than for bad. Our Constitution was created by some incredibly clear-thinking people over two centuries ago and has continued to keep us on the right track with relatively few changes of significance and has been a template for other countries and an example of creating a fair and just government with rule of law protecting everyone equally; every four years our government hands control over to a successor without bloodshed or even unrest (although Trump has been stirring the pot, calling the elective process “rigged,’ to the point I’ve read some of his idiotic followers threatening revolution if Trump loses the election. What a whining little juvenile he is).

Back to what’s good: We lobbied for, created and continue to be the primary supporter of the United Nations, an organization whose sole purpose is to provide a forum to work out international conflicts without resorting to war. Our economic engine has brought an improved standard of living to US citizens and to most of our trading partners. (True, we’re seeing wealth increasingly concentrated in the hands of too few and a shrinking middle class, but I think that just the fact that we are aware of this makes a difference.) An organization created by our wealthiest men and women (driven by Bill Gates and Warren Buffet) exists to leverage their wealth and power for the benefit of people all over the world.

Lest I be accused of thinking “we’re the best” (and I think of Jeff Daniel’s character’s rant in the TV series “Newsroom” in response to the question “Why is the United States the greatest nation?” as one of the all-time greatest wakeup calls in modern TV), there is obviously lots of room for improvement. We need to act on global warming RIGHT. NOW. We need to use our influence and power to end the strife in Syria and the Middle East, and at the same time stop seeing armed might as the primary solution to the world’s problems. But on the whole, I think we do more for good than ill by a considerable margin. Churchill also said (in a speech before the House of Commons in 1947) “It has been said that democracy is the worst form of Government except all those other forms that have been tried from time to time.” Nicely put, I’d say.

And that brings me back to the current train wreck of a Presidential election. I think that Trump, with his misogyny, racism and protectionism appeal to the very worst in us. He is pandering to the fears and anger of a segment of our population who feel left out and betrayed by our political system (and maybe with justification). But the solution is not to abandon the very principles upon which we were founded nearly 250 years ago. Instead we should be hearkening back to our roots, reaffirming our commitment to inclusiveness in religion, culture and fairness. I think if we are to continue to be the example to the world of what a free society can be, we need to stay true to our roots, and that means we have to be sure Trump stays out of the White House.

It’s that important.

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George Bush, Senior’s gracious note to Bill Clinton

This has been one of the nastiest presidential races in modern history. It seems that every time I think it can’t get any worse something outrageous happens that proves me wrong. Of course, I think the nastiest things come from Trump, but I suppose those who support him would say that Hillary is just as nasty. (I think they are wrong and I think the story of this election, when it’s read in the future, will support me.)

I’ve generally supported the Democratic nominee in previous elections (although I am registered as an Independent), and in each race I disagree (sometimes profoundly) with the Republican positions on social issues, while I agree with some of their fiscal policies. Most of the time the social positions are more important to me than fiscal issues, so I generally wind up voting for the Democrat. But in looking back from the perspective of this train wreck of a race, I think Trump’s candidacy is a travesty. I don’t think there’s one thing that he’s said that I agree with (although a case could be made that he hasn’t really said much of anything that represents a real plan or policy; no one who’s given it any serious thought believes he’s going to build a wall along our southern border, drop out of NAFTA or kill the Affordable Care Act; that’s all just bluster and bullshit).

In my opinion, the fact that he is a candidate at all is the result of a long line of mistakes that I think Republicans have made in attempting (often successfully) to maintain control of the houses of Congress and the White House when possible. I’ve written about that previously so I don’t intend to do so again, but in each case during the previous Primaries and run-ups to the election I find myself thinking that the current candidate would be an awful choice. If the Republican gets elected I mostly see the negative things they do; I thought Dubya was an awful president and his father only slightly better. I have none of the reverence for Reagan that people on the right still seem to have; I thought he was clueless and full of bluster and show during his presidency.

But now, looking back at each of them from the context of this election and comparing them to Trump, I feel a certain of nostalgia for those guys, because at least they respected the office and once they got into the oval office seemed to do their best (with the possible exception of Dubya). Anyhow, Bush Senior just went up a significant notch or two in my opinion when I saw a hand-written letter he wrote for Bill Clinton on his last day in the Oval Office. CNN published the letter (others picked it up), and it genuinely surprised me in how gracious Bush was in welcoming Clinton to the White House and in turning over the reigns of the government. He said “You will be our President when you read this note. I wish you well. I wish your family well. Your success now is our country’s success. I am rooting hard for you.”

What a wonderful thing to do! No snark, no “well, you beat me, you bastard!” but simply a gracious and clearly heartfelt “good luck!.”

Contrast that with Trump’s statement that if he loses, he’s not sure he’ll accept it as the will of the people. What incredible arrogance! “If I win, it’s fair, if I lose, the election is rigged against me.” No wonder Bush has stated privately he’s not voting for Trump.

This time, it really IS different. No person who has ever run for President in the history of this country is less-suited to be our President than Trump, in temperament, knowledge, ability or experience.

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Trump, nuclear codes and The Confessions of a Republican

mushroom-cloudI’ve written several entries now about the current Presidential race, how Donald Trump against all predictions got the Republican nomination and the effect that is having on the Republican party. I think it’s clear that the party wonks were terrified of what we have now, two weeks before the election: The Donald is the Republican Party’s nominee, and it’s beginning to look very much like he’s going go down in flames. Not only that, but Trump’s probable flameout is endangering the entire Republican ticket; they’re apparently in real danger of losing at least the Senate and maybe even the House. I think they’re all scratching their heads, wondering how Jeb could have failed so early in the primaries, when he was the clear party favorite (or so they thought). I’ve even read a rumor that Mormon Mitt was at one point being pressured to throw his hat in the ring. Given the bunch of crazies in the original Republican lineup he would have been the best of the bunch, and I would have voted for him over almost any of the others that ran under the Republican ticket; and believe me when I say I never EVER thought I’d hear myself consider ANY scenario that would include me voting for Mittens!

But we’re in the final stages of this race, and just about the entire Republican leadership (with the exception of current RNC chair Reince Priebus, Rudy Giuliani and Chris Christy) has distanced themselves from Trump because, well, no reasonable person sees him as worthy of holding the highest office in the land. Those who do intend to vote for him are made up of crazies and right-wing nut jobs, the “Anybody but Hillary” crowd, and a few who are honestly convinced he’ll be able to change things in a good way (note that I don’t consider these people “reasonable,” but they may be honest in their support).

I’ve also written about the 1964 Presidential election between Lyndon Johnson and Barry Goldwater. Recall that Johnson became President when Kennedy was killed, so this was his first time as the Democratic candidate in the general election. Goldwater was staunchly conservative and a hawk on defense. Whether he was as far to the right as was commonly thought is a question better answered by others, but as the elections showed, he was certainly frightening to the voters. Johnson won at least partly by preying on the fears of the US voters that Goldwater couldn’t be trusted with his finger on the nuclear button; he just might start World War III. In any case, Johnson won in what is widely considered a landslide; Republicans have been stinging from that paddling for years.

Anyhow, one of the ads that was run then now seems incredibly pertinent to our current race. It’s black and white and a bit grainy and “60’s-ish” but I find it compelling. You should take a look for yourself, but briefly it’s a straight shot of a middle-aged guy talking into the camera about how he’s been a lifelong Republican but in this election he’s voting Democrat because the stakes are simply too high to vote for Goldwater. Recall that this was the height of the Cold War and Goldwater’s hawkish stance was being played against him. Pretty compelling for back then (Goldwater lost spectacularly) and I think it plays just as well today.

I’m not sure why the Democrats aren’t running something like that today. One could argue that with the end of the Cold War things have changed, but frankly, the thought of a loon like Trump having the nuclear codes is simply too frightening to consider.

This election is even more important: even if you can’t stand Hillary, we can’t let Trump get his stubby little fingers on that much power.

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Three weeks and counting

I have to take a short break from my comments about our Africa trip because of the freak show that the presidential race has become. Here in the US, Election Day is less than three weeks from today as I write this. The polls will close in the evening of November 7 and we’ll begin to hear some of the early returns and predictions shortly thereafter. I can only hope we begin to hear early predictions, because that will mean it isn’t a close election.

If you’ve read any of my previous blogs I think it’s plain that I’m no fan of Trump; in fact I think he’s become an incredible embarrassment not just to our political system but to the United States in general. I think it would be hilarious to find out that he’s actually a dear friend of the Clintons and this whole charade is simply to ensure that Hillary becomes our first female president. It’s hard to imagine that his actions represent part of an actual strategy to get himself elected; it’s almost exactly the opposite of that. I wrote earlier that the necessary process is to solidify one’s base by appealing to the most active (and therefore most die-hard party loyalists) in the run up to the primary, and then once the party’s nomination is locked down to pivot toward the center to widen the appeal. Without that essential center vote it’s impossible to get elected; the delicate maneuvering comes in trying to appeal to the centrists without alienating the original base.

Trump, of course, has never shown any signs of a pivot; in fact virtually everything he’s said has been red meat to the farthest fringe of the Republican party. And his posturing has become so outrageous, so bad, that it’s almost impossible to see it as a real attempt to get elected. The latest is that last weekend’s Saturday Night Live opening skit is actually part of a massive, coordinated plot by Hillary and “the mainstream media” to deny him his rightful place at the helm of the US.

Many MANY others have gone through the litany of this buffoon’s gaffes, so I won’t do it here, but to call all of the dozen or so women who have come forward to share their “groping” experiences of him liars on the heels of video of him bragging about the very thing he says they are lying about is beyond belief. Then to essentially say it’s nothing but “locker room talk” anyway, and that furthermore, “Bill Clinton is way worse” just amazes me. How anyone could even try to defend that is simply unconscionable.

And yet, a significant percentage of our population here in the US of A is doing just that. Either defending, forgiving or ignoring. And I get that Hillary is extremely unpopular among a large group who are not so much supporting Trump as refusing to vote for Hillary, but even taking those people out of the mix you still have about 50% of the people committed to voting for Trump because they actually believe he’s the superior choice.

In an earlier post I described an acquaintance of mine who fits that category. He’s a well-educated man (a physician, in fact), but in spite of Trump’s obvious (at least to me) complete lack of qualification to be president, he thinks Trump is “the best thing that has come along in politics for as long as he can remember.” I didn’t ask him, but when I’ve asked other people what specifically they like about Trump what I usually get instead is a litany of what’s bad about Hillary. If they do describe what appeals to them about Trump, it’s almost invariably at odds with the facts. “He’s a great businessman and can turn around out government.” Or “He tells it like it is.” Or “He’s not in the pocket of Big Money.” Each of these is demonstrably false. So what it is that these people see that I don’t?

I never thought I’d say this, but it’s actually a bit of a shame that Jeb Bush dropped out early. He at least would not be an embarrassment

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Cecil the lion

cecil-the-lionOne of our tour-mates had been on our same tour several years ago and had taken a photo of a magnificent mature lion in Hwange park, our third camp. He showed the photo to our guide, asking if it was Cecil, which was confirmed. Recall that Cecil (named after Cecil Rhodes), was the lion killed by Walter Palmer, a dentist from Minnesota. This guy paid in excess of $50,000 for the privilege of killing Cecil and got international opprobrium (justifiably, in my opinion) for his trouble. Cecil was probably the best-known lion in Hwange park; he was in the prime of his life (lions live 20-25 years in the wild; Cecil was 13) and he even had a GPS collar. Hunting is illegal in the park, but Palmer’s guides had dragged bait around and lured him out of the park where he was fair game. Palmer shot him with a bow, wounding him; they then tracked him and finished him off with a rifle. Some reports state that it took them 40 hours to finally catch up with him and kill him, although Palmer and his guides say it wasn’t that long. Either way, a pretty brutal and agonizing death for a magnificent creature. There was a hue and cry all over the US for some kind of punishment or prosecution of what was believed to be a crime; it was believed that it could not be legal to kill a lion wearing a GPS tracking collar. But in fact no crime was committed; Palmer had paid a fee to hunt (and kill) a lion; it was just Cecil’s bad luck that he left the safety of the park to follow the bait and became a trophy on Walter Palmer’s wall.

Overseas Adventure Travel (our tour company) likes to make sure that each of their trips includes a variety of educational experiences so we can get to know more about the people and places we visit. One evening we had a lecture on the current hunting policy in Zimbabwe. It turns out that the revenue generated by hunting parties contributes significantly to the area; in fact the local economy would take a significant hit if these expeditions were outlawed (at least according to our speaker, one of our guides). Furthermore, the animals are no in particular jeopardy or environmental pressure as a species, and in fact the case could be made that the process actually benefits the species through selective culling.

A couple of asides: one of our guides who now worked for Adventure Safaris, the local company that OAT contracted with for accommodations and local guides, had previously been a hunter’s guide and had led similar hunting expeditions to the one that killed Cecil, although that had been many years ago. While he now guided photographic safaris like ours, Elliot “knew” Cecil and was familiar with most of the prides in the park. It turns out that he was an advocate for hunting expeditions such as this, and so had no particular philosophical problem with them at all. It should be noted that his opinion was a minority one; our trip leader (Champion) disagreed with him and felt that keeping the lion prides healthy and free from hunters made better business sense in the long term.

Anyhow, our speaker said it wasn’t a simple “hunting is bad” question; he said there were lots of lions; they were not in any danger of extinction and the locals benefited as guides, suppliers and support staff of the hunt. He pointed out that many people feel the animal is secondary to the needs of the local populace and economy; and here in the US that is certainly true. We may not be quite as cavalier as organizing hunting parties, but we certainly don’t put the needs of the animal above humans. Besides (as our lecturer pointed out), in fact the lions frequently die violent deaths from other lions, get injured during hunts, and so forth; Cape buffalo are tough and strong herd animals and lions are frequently injured and even killed as they try to take down large game. So why get upset when lions are killed by hunters? They die all the time. Furthermore, when lions get old and can no longer fight off competitors for their pride they are kicked out and have to hunt on their own. As it is very difficult for a lone lion to take down another animal, they generally starve to death. So these hunts may even spare them a more cruel death.

Furthermore, who are we Westerners to be critical? We have a long history of exploiting the local culture in Africa for our own gain and pleasure; it’s only been recently that most of the game drives switched from bullets to cameras, and isn’t it a bit hypocritical of us to suddenly develop a sense of the beauty of nature, to be appreciated and photographed rather than subjugating (and killing) it?

Zimbabwe is an extremely poor country. The economy is in the toilet and most people have real challenges making ends meet; a good salary is around $800 a month. The Zimbabwe currency is virtually worthless; in fact the US dollar is the accepted currency everywhere in the country. The money earned by leading a hunting expedition would likely be more than the average person would earn in a year. Since these expeditions are not only legal, but they provide a significant income to lots of (very poor) local people, coupled with the contention that the overall population of lions is not in any danger, it makes a pretty compelling case that it’s none of our business and our outrage over the killing of Cecil is misplaced.

I understand those arguments, but for me they miss the main point. Whether it is legal or not is not the issue. A better question is “Why is it necessary for some people to feel better about themselves by killing an animal? What does that say about them personally?” And by the way, that question applies equally to Walter Palmer and to anyone else who hunts simply for sport.

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Another notion (or two) bite the dust

In a previous post I talked about the Soweto shanty towns and how people living in such poverty-stricken conditions didn’t fit what I expected. We also had the opportunity to visit a couple of homes during our time on safari, and which gave another preconceived notion a reality check.

First of all, the home visit. Overseas Adventure Travel (OAT), the organizers of our safari, always arrange for people to spend time learning about the local culture and people. When Cathy went on another OAT trip some years ago to China, their group was split up and had dinner in the homes of local families. In Africa, we visited a primary school that OAT supports through donations and gifts in the Botswana town of Hwange, and afterwards we went to a local homestead. An extended family lived there, with the matriarch as our host (only because she had greater facility with English than her husband). They are not particularly a matriarchal society, nor particularly patriarchal either; it seemed to me there was more of a partnership, at least in this particular household. hwange_homeAnyhow, their home compound was made up of several small buildings, each devoted to a different function (cooking and eating in one, sleeping in another, etc.) The cooking/eating building had a thatched roof (with a hole at the peak), an open cooking fire in the center and a bench around the inside wall. They had a handful of cooking pots and utensils hanging on the wall and a single entry way (no door). The floor was dirt, but the inside was spotless and organized. A couple of other buildings similarly constructed for sleeping for other members of the extended family, a goat pen and a small garden fenced off made up their compound. Their “shower” was a small structure with a door and a fixed faucet on a pole, with no roof. Water was carried from either a faucet or a stream a hundred yards or so away.

(Full disclosure: one of the other buildings had three very small rooms; two for sleeping, the third for watching TV…Yes, this building had electricity, a TV and a satellite dish…and they had a fairly late model Toyota. Go figure!) We also were told that this was a very typical homestead for Botswana, and furthermore that the majority of the people in the country came from such a village and environment, and still identified that as “home” even if they now lived in a city.

So (in spite of the somewhat anachronistic TV and car): cooking over an open fire, no electricity (at least not in any building except one), no running water and dirt floors.

Still, all in all, if that were here in the US, we would associate it not only with abject poverty but lack of education as well.

In conversation with our guides, we found that they all came from a similar village, whether it was in Botswana, Zambia or Zimbabwe (the three countries we visited as part of our safari). Again, my assumption was to associate that kind of poverty and limited resources with lack of education. bush_educationSo it came as quite a shock when one of our guides started talking about “symbiotic relationships between the animals, the migratory patterns dictated by the weather and prevailing wind/rainy season, which itself was a result of the southern hemispheric Coriolis effect, and the occasional autotroph found in elephant dung (had to look that one up!) And he was clearly not trying to impress us; this was a highly educated, articulate and knowledgeable man, not just about the bush flora and fauna, but other topics as well. Another of our guides gave us an impromptu but highly informative lesson in southern hemisphere astronomy, pointing out not just the Southern Cross, but explaining in considerable detail how to calculate both true and magnetic south from the arrangement of the stars. Turns out that most of the guides, even though they came from such simple (at least to us) homes, were well-educated; our friend casually discussing autotrophs had spent time in London at school and was clearly comfortable with his knowledge.

Another observation: here in the US we take our education and opportunities for granted in a stupefyingly casual way. The kids we spoke with in our school visit I mention above all took their education very seriously. They all intended to go on to college (if they could find the money to do so) and clearly looked at an education as a ticket to a better life. Contrast that with the average school kid here, bored to tears with school and wanting it to simply “be over.” Our dropout rate compared to what we saw in southern Africa does not bode well for our future as a society.

I have to say I’m ashamed at the assumptions and preconceived notions I had before our trip.

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Preconceived notions go down in flames:  Soweto

Soweto_signIt’s always a bit of a shock to me when my preconceived notions turn out to be wrong. Of course it shouldn’t; many (if not most) do. But I don’t think I’m that unusual; we all create a mental image of an expected experience, and depending upon how strong that image is, when we are confronted by a very different reality it can be jarring.

Going to Africa was like that in lots of small (and some not so small) ways. One of the them Soweto_shantyis our experience seeing the shanty towns in Soweto. Like most of us, I’d seen the newsreels of Soweto, where people are living in tiny one-room huts tar paper huts with leaky corrugated tin roofs. This was such a strong image that when I think of people living hopelessly in abject poverty, that’s what comes t mind. Anyhow, Lorraine Leas (my friend in South Africa) had arranged for Mothusi (a man she regularly uses as a driver for airport runs) to take us around Johannesburg on a free day to see the sights and get a feel for the city. He showed us the more upscale parts of Johannesburg and made sure we got some of the history of South Africa (colonialism as well as pre- and post-apartheid life), and he also took us to Soweto.

Soweto_tourSoweto is a quite large section of Johannesburg, and did in fact include the shanty towns I had envisioned. Mothusi drove us to one particular section and asked us to stay in his vehicle while he went to find his “sister.” (I learned later she probably wasn’t actually his sister in the sense of sharing parents, but I wasn’t really clear on their actual relationship. She could have been a “sister in faith,” meaning they went to the same church, or maybe even a half-sister, since polygamous marriages are accepted and common among South African blacks.) Either way, he introduced us to a very pleasant young woman who was extremely polite, articulate (and obviously educated). She was dressed like a tour guide, and took Cathy and me on a short walking tour of this shanty town. It was pretty much exactly like what I had envisioned, at least visually. One room huts made of tar paper, corrugated tin roofs, the whole thing. No plumbing, a single bulb in the middle of the ceiling, a cloth divider screening off sleeping areas, and so forth. So far, my notion of abject poverty.

But for the surprises. First, the people didn’t seem to be like people I would expect, living in such Spartan conditions. They seemed happy, hospitable and open. Several people invited us to walk into their homes without apparent expectations of getting paid, and seemed to take pride in what possessions they had. It also turned out that the South African government provided electricity, water and bathroom facilities, although the water source was a single faucet in the center of the shanty town, and “bathroom facilities” meant porta-potties lined up on the main walkway.

The next surprise:  the hopelessness that I had expected from living in such conditions wasn’t evident. Most of the people viewed the conditions as temporary, even if they had been there for 15 or 20 years; they were all expecting to eventually get moved to subsidized housing of some sort, either an apartment or a stand-along dwelling. Secondly, virtually all of the kids were in school. They had school uniforms which were clean and cared for, and they took their school attendance very seriously, as a way to improve themselves. No one wanted to drop out school, they didn’t complain about homework or how boring school is (as you find here), but definitely viewed it as a way out of their current situation.

The third surprise was Mothusi’s “sister”…she lives one of the huts she showed us. As I said, she looked like a tour guide and was very articulate and educated, yet she had grown up in these conditions that I had associated with abject poverty. Quite a surprise.

The fourth significant surprise:  I had assumed that Soweto is all shanty town. It turns out that some of the neighborhoods would fit in quite nicely in nicer Southern California neighborhoods. Smaller homes, yes, but well-kept brick homes with nicely manicured lawns and art on the walls.

So while I had assumed (as I think most of us who haven’t actually been there) that Soweto is all shanty town and a virtual definition of hopelessness, it was actually almost anything but that. Theses turned out to be the first of a number of preconceived notions that turned out to be very wrong!

I think the main difference I saw was that here, that level of poverty would be accompanied by a sense of hopelessness and a conviction that the entire system was rigged against them, while in Soweto people seemed to be convinced that they were on their way up and out.

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Roughing it, Boy Scout style

Scout_tent_campJamboree is a major street in central Orange County not far from John Wayne International, the airport I fly in and out of a lot these days. When I was new to OC the history of the county wasn’t all that interesting to me, but as I got more familiar with my surroundings and came to think of them as “home” I discovered that Jamboree was named after a scouting event back in the Fifties. I was never a Boy Scout (not a very long story, but it had something to do with being raised as one of Jehovah’s Witnesses), but I always thought the BoyScout_tentoutdoorsy-part of Scouting was kind of cool. Anyhow, it turns out that Scouts have gatherings they call “jamborees” and there was a big one in 1953 in Orange County, for which Jamboree Blvd. in Costa Mesa was named. I envisioned tent camps kind of like this one (above), with rows of tents along the lines of this (right). All in all, fairly Spartan accommodations.

So when I read up on our safari plans and saw that our safari lodgings were described as tent camps, I was prepared for something similar to the Boy Scout camps. Much smaller camps, of course, but still, not permanent; something easily taken down and put up again and with maybe a central temporary toilet/shower. That didn’t really bother me; I just figured we’d be roughing it for our over 2 weeks out in the bush.

The reality was different. Very different.

I was totally unprepared for electric lighting, hot showers, sinks, faucets and even flush toilets, in Cathy_tentevery “tent.” Calling them tents is accurate, I guess, but only in the sense that they were made of DSC_0066 (3)heavy cloth material (a type of waterproofed canvas, I think). They all had solid flooring (sometimes a concrete pad, sometimes on a raised wooden platform) with doors that lock, ceiling fans and VERY comfortable beds. They were much more like upscale hotel rooms than a Boy Scout tent camp, that’s certain!

We stayed in four different camps; two in Botswana, one in Zimbabwe and one in Zambia. Our trip was organized through OAT (Overseas Adventure Travel) and they contracted with a company named Wilderness Safari, who owned the actual camps where we stayed. Each camp was very similar, with somewhere between 8 and 10 “tents” and a central lodge where the meals were served. It was quite an experience to be out in the middle of a national park, literally 500 miles from a city, and have a white-coated chef explain our menu selection for that evening while our waiter asked if we preferred white or red wine.

That kind of “roughing it” works very nicely, thank you very much.

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